Rolling stones

Posted by Luka Krajnc on April 10, 2014
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The weather around1.1 Foto_Luka Lindič Europe for multi-day alpine adventures was anything but perfect this winter. Together with the Slovenian alpine team we spent 10 rainy days in February in Japan, where weather debates and raw fish were on the daily menu. On days like that our minds floated away regularly to different places but the trip was perfect for bonding, exchanging ideas, future plans and discovering that despite the cultural differences, we are sharing a similar spirit, that is connected to the climbing tribe all over the globe. A few days after our return, I got a call from my friend and climbing partner Luka Lindič. Continue reading…

Patagonia

Posted by Luka Krajnc on June 01, 2013
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  riders-1 In December 2012, I flew to Patagonia together with another Slovenian Andrej Grmovšek. After all the flights and transfers, we arrived to El Calafate, but one of our bags wasn´t that lucky. We spend four days in El Calafate, talking with the airline and hearing new exotic stories about our missing bag everyday. When we finally got it, a bus took us to Puerto Natales. We bought all the food for three weeks that were ahead of us and caught the morning bus to Torres del Paine. Continue reading…

Summer 2012 on the walls and in the water

Posted by Luka Krajnc on April 18, 2013
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Enjoying a warm and windy day on Balaton. Foto: Gašper KrajncClimbing the steep granite on Gran Pillier d Angle was one of my long time wishes, so with a short but sunny weather window approaching , together with Luka Lindič, we drove towards Courmajeur. On the first day, we took a cable car to Torino hut , walked to Fourche bivouac and checked our approach that leads to Grand Pillier d Angle and our goal Divine providence (7b+, 900+600m). I never sleep good before big climbs and this time was no different.

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Tre Cime in winter

Posted by Luka Krajnc on April 13, 2013
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 Climbing on Tre cime in summer  has always been fun. Maybe the short approach and a lot of relatively well protected routes doesn´t make these walls the most alpine around, but exactly because of these factors one can focus more on the other challenges their steep walls offer. Although I climbed there a lot in the past summer seasons, I always wondered how do they feel like in winter. Quiet, cold, scary? I teamed up with my friend Andrej Grmovšek and went searching for answers on one cloudless day in March. Continue reading…

Jungle adventures in Venezuela

Posted by Luka Krajnc on April 12, 2013
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In December 2011, Andrej (38) and Tanja Grmovšek (35) together with Matic Obid (23) and my self (25) were sitting in the first row of a chilled out Venezuelan bus headed from the chaos of Caracas towards the small town of Santa Elena, the last stop before our jungle adventure. Before disconnecting from the civilized world we used the internet for the last time and the news of Tanja`s fathers death at home send a shock wave true all of us. After intense moments, hard decisions and some logistical problems Tanja and Andrej headed back home the next morning, after only two days in Venezuela. Continue reading…

Defying gravity on Bellavista

Posted by Luka Krajnc on April 12, 2013
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Tre Cime are striking. While climbing there for the first time I was amazed. Approaching them for the first time years ago, I had no idea what they will look like. When I walked around the corner on the approach, their north faces hit me. The steepness was incredible. I couldn’t believe the contrast between their south and north faces. That view is something special and even now, that I’ve climbed there for more than twenty times, I cannot take my eyes off them on the approach.

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Bishop, Indian Creek in Las Vegas

Posted by Luka Krajnc on December 04, 2011
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Ja, vem, zamujam. Shit happens. Moj klasični odgovor: Bolje pozno kot nikoli :)

Po Yosemitih nama je ostalo še 3 tedne časa in v deželi onkraj luže se nama je pridružil še Peter Jeromel. Z polno naloženim najetim avtomobilom smo se odpravili novim dogodivščinam naproti in prva postaja na našem tripu je bil Bishop, ki s svojim ogromnim potencialom za balvaniranje in lepim vremenom privablja plezalce iz vsega sveta. Spoznali smo kar nekaj plezalcev iz Amerike in Evrope, ter se resnično vživeli v balvansko sceno. Obiskali smo vse tri glavne boulder spote in sicer Buttermilks, Happy boulders in Druid stones, en dan pa smo preizkusili tudi njihovo športno plezalno destinacijo Owens river gorge, ki pa nas zaradi toliko odličnih balvanov okoli Bishopa in za evropske razmere zgolj povprečnostjo ni najbolj navdušila. Continue reading…

V enem dnevu čez Salathe

Posted by Luka Krajnc on November 05, 2011
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V Salathe HeadwalluPo treh dnevih počitka, so prvi občutki utrujenosti počasi zbledeli in misli so ponovno uhajale v El Cap. Tokrat sem združil moči z odličnim avstrijskim plezalcem Hansjorg Auerjem in ker nisva imela želje po ponovnem večdnevnem vzponu, sva se odločila za enodnevno misijo z ciljem preplezati Salathe, brez odvečnega tovora in prosto plezalnih ambicij. Oba navdušena po odličnem predavanju prvih plezalcev ob 50-ti obletnici Salatheja en dan prej, sva stala pod steno ob pol štirih zjutraj in v soju svetilk začela najino popotovanje po 1000 metrih granita, ki je  stal pred nama. Continue reading…

En gib do popolnosti

Posted by Luka Krajnc on October 30, 2011
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Nastja v Golden Desert raztežaju z najinim visečim domom v ozadjuMinil je ze več kot en mesec, odkar sva z Nastjo priletela v San Francisco in se naslednje jutro odpravila proti Yosemitom. Prva dva tedna sta bila posvečena ponovnemu privajanju na poči v plezališčih in daljših smereh po dolini.
Moj glavni namen tega obiska je bilo prosto plezanje v El Capitanu, zato se je po začetnem vplezavanju pogled vedno večkrat ustavil v območju smeri Golden Gate, ki je postala moj prostoplezalni cilj. Golden Gate sledi prvih 20 raztežajev Salatheju, potem pa se odcepi desno in je z 41 raztežaji ena najdaljših smeri v El Capu. Sprva sem razmišljal, da bi se bilo dobro najprej spustiti z vrha, naštudirati najtežje raztežaje, ter shraniti nekaj hrane in vode v steni, a sem se kasneje odločil, da poizkusim boljšem, »ground up« stilu, torej od spodaj z sprotnim vlečenjem vse opreme, kljub temu, da sem se zavedal, da bo vse skupaj težje in zaradi večje utrujenosti, možnosti za prosti vzpon manjše. Continue reading…

Bellavista

Posted by Luka Krajnc on September 15, 2011
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..., Foto: Urban GolobKo sem še pred nekaj leti poslušal in bral zgodbe o Bellavisti v Zahodni Cini v Dolomitih, sem samo gledal z odprtimi usti in se čudil, kakšne stvari ljudje resnično preplezajo prosto, hkrati pa si nekako sam pri sebi govoril, da so to itak na pol »vesoljci« oz. da so takšni vzponi namenjeni samo talentiranim izbrancem. Podobno sem gledal tudi na kakšne druge smeri, ki pa so se počasi začele pojavljati na mojem seznamu že preplezanih in tako se je začela spreminjati tudi moja miselnost o »nedosegljivem«. Seveda so bile vse lažje od Bellaviste, vendar so kljub temu predstavljale izziv za moj takratni plezalni nivo. Dokaj občutna razlika je bila tudi ta, da sem pri skoraj vseh prejšnjih ciljih poznal koga, ki je smer že preplezal in tako je bila prva psihična blokada pred neznanim že prebita, z nekaj napotki glede logistike, taktike in opreme, pa je tudi samo plezanje lažje »steklo«, tokrat pa je bilo neznank bistveno več. Continue reading…